Tuesday, August 27, 2013

Raga Megh in Thar desert, Pugal, Rajasthan



The grand old Ustad Ghulam Mohammad from Pugal who learned Hindustani classical music in Bahawulpur for eight years. During this period of stay in Bahawulpur he had the privilege of giving performances in Chachar Sharif in Kot Mithan at Khwaja Ghulam Farid's sacred tomb.

Inspite of his age Ustadjee is an atttentive person with a sharp  rather acrid sense of wit. He is the Mir Manga (Genealogist) of the Mirs of Pugal.  



He still savours the rich aromatic and spicy pugal style ghost (mutton) soaking wet in thick gravy of mustard oil turned red with chillies and sprinkled with copious amounts of fried garlic.


Click to hear Ustad Ghulam Mohammad

Saturday, August 17, 2013

Wilayat of Chistis in Indo Pak frontier desert




An important feature of popular Islam has been the supreme faith in the saint or pir or sayyid sustained through hardships. Most of the times Muslims and Hindus shared the veneration of the same spiritual guide. It goes to the credit of the great Persio Musico Mystical tradition of sufiyana qalam that an essentially esoteric mystical tradition filtered down to commoners in comprehensible and appealing form.

Sufiyana qalams of Baba Farid, Shahbaz Qalandar, Bulleh Shah, Shah Bahoo, Shah Latif, Khawaja Ghulam Farid, Shah Hussain, and Ali Haider some of the main great sufi mystics of North west India form the kernel of these traditions. They are undoubtedly among the best traditions of Indian Islam “…of poetry and music as an essential means of devotional expression and the attainment of religious ecstasy”. These traditions were formed in a largely pre literate oral context in which regional languages like Sindhi, Pashto, Multani served as vernacular medium wherein were “…translated the secrets of Divine love, longing and trust in the Prophet into the vocabulary of farmers, pastoralists drawing and incorporating elements of Indian bhakti mysticism. It is this simple, ‘rustic’ mystical piety which colours large parts of Indian Islam” that reflects so vividly in the many compositions performed by these hereditary musicians for generations. 

Chiefly performed in dargahs and khanaqahs of Sufis associated with the Chisti silsila the traditions celebrate the seminal importance of saints in revealing the popular aspect of Islam.The Chisti saints beginning with Baba Farid in the thirteenth century have played a seminal role in the dissemination of Islamic culture through Sind and Hind. In fact it has been observed by the great scholar Professor Mohammad Habib that “the insistence of Chisti was not writing on mysticism but living according to it. And the Chistis known for their simplicity “…combined harsh asceticism with ardent love of music and poetry…”and “…allowed non-Muslim novices to ‘taste’ mystical experience…”. For most of the Chisti saints music was a spiritual staple, not merely a permissible (halal) but a required religious practice (wajib) as opening the inner and spiritual aspect of Islam.

 This Indo Pak frontier desert region has been blessed with a number of Sufi saints, mostly of the Chisti silsila. Their humble and rustic dargahs (shrines) in far away interiors amidst grasslands is a testimony to their wilayat (spiritual kingdom), of those who revered music as the vital colour (rang) of Allah’s devotion.