Visit to Ajmer Sharif Khwaja

From IIHMR, Jaipur:

Was ready at 6.30 in the morning. Rakesh called up, he had come with his Autorickhaw. Met Alam, Gaurav, Vandana at Navalji's tea stall. We were all ready to go to Ajmer.

Talking to Abdul from Ajmer and Huzra No. 7.

Mirs of pugal, the mystic gatekeepers of the gate of Khwaja Mu-unidin Chisti had to be invoked. By the grace of their name, the gates were open and we found ourselves being led by the khadim wading through the crowd and reaching straight to the main shrine, the tomb.

inquiries about Nizam bhisti who saved Humayun's life, the sandal khana where the grove of forest led the khwaja to the blessings of none other than Mahadev, the grand Hindu God. My comrade, the khadim was not interested in these 'historical' inquiries.

experience at Shandali masjid accredited to be built by Aurangzeb.

and other things......

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Culture of Pastoralism in North West Thar

Nomads of Jaisalmer

dk;Zdkjh v/;;u dk uke

mrjh if'peh tSlyesj ds jkex< {ks= esa v)Z /kqeDdM Ik'kqikydksa ds lkFk leqnk; ds izfrfuf/kRo okys fudk;ksa ds fuekZ.k }kjk viuh vkthfodk dks lqjf{kr j[kus dh j.kuhfr;ksa dh [kkst

vof/k %& 11 eghus (May 2001 to March 2002)

v/;;u drkZ dk uke %& prjflag 'tke' ] jkex<] tSlyesj

1- lUnHkZ %&

tSlyesaj ftys dk mrj if'pe {ks= esa i'kq o Ik'kqikydks dk thou LoHkko ls ljy ijUrq dfBukbZ;ksa ds chp ls xqtjrk FkkA bldk eryc ;g ugha fd os dfBukbZ;ksa dk lek/kku ugha fudky ikrs FksA Ik'kqikydks dk thou fuokZg Ik'kq/ku ls izkIr vk; ij cMh lknxh ls pyrk FkkA ÅWV] HksM] cdjh o xks ikyu dk eq[; O;olk; thou dk ,d vax FkkA vktknh ls iwoZ Ik'kq Ik'kqikydk dk lEcU/k jktLo ds vk/kkj ij lRrk ls FkkA jkt 'kkgh lRrk dks Ik'kq/ku ls [kkl eq[; jktLo vk; izkIr gksrh FkhA vktknh ds ckn Ik'kqikydksa ls jktLo tCr djuk :d x;k ijUrq jkT; dk vf/kdkj Ik'kqikydksa dh Hkqfe ij cuk jgk jkT; ;g vf/kdkj tehu cspdj ;k vkoafVr djds1 iw.kZ djrk FkkA blds dkj.k Ik'kqikyd vius xkspj vkSj ?kkl okyh tehu ik'pjyS.M fjUt yS.M lEifr ds rkSj ij [kksrs jgs Øe'k% xkspj vkSj ik'pjyS.M Hkwfe pkjkxkg dh ek=k de gksrh xbZA D;ksafd mu tehuksa ij futh LokfeRo LFkkfir gksrk jgkA gkWa ;g ckr lR; gS fd Ik'kq/ku dh chekjh dks ysdj Ik'kqikyd foHkkx o HksM o mu foHkkx ftyk Lrj ij gS o xzkeh.k cMs dLcks rd Hkh d

k;kZy; gSA ijUrq ewy :Ik ls ;g viuh iSaB Ik'kqikydks ds fcp ugha cuk ik,A tgkWa gky ds o"kksZ esa Ik'kq/ku dh chekjh dks ysdj fpfdRlk lEcU/kh lq>ko o nokbZ IkgqWaph gS ijUrq chekjh u gksdj Ik'kq/ku dk ewy vk/kkj pkjkxkg gSA bl lEcU/k esa Li"V o lgh uhfr ds vHkko esa Ik'kqikyd oxZ vletL; o Hkfo"; dks ysdj fpfUrr gS gekjk Ikz;kl bl Ik{k dks ysdj ;g gS fd Ik'kqikyd Lo;a bl lEcU/k esa fopkj djs o viuk ,adkdh o fujk'kk dk :Ik NksMdj lgHkkxhrk ls fopkj djds pkjkxkg Ik'kq/ku Ik'kqikyd thou iz'kklu oxZ o ljdkj rd ,d lkFkZd tqMko o uhfr cus ftlls Ik'kq/ku pkjkxkg o izd`fr vuqdwy thou Ik'kqikyd dks laj{k.k feysA

2- tSlyesj ds mRrjh if'peh {ks= dk Ik'kqikyd %&

2-1 mRrjh if'peh {ks= ds pkj Hkkx

¼v½- izFke Hkkx %& ge bl {ks= dk v/;;u pkj Hkkxksa esa foHkkftr dj jgs gSa igyk {ks= lqyrkuk xzke iapk;r ¼fMXxkikyh {ks=½ ls 'kq: gqvk tgkWa vc Ik'kq/ku lekIr gksus dks tk jgk gSA ÅWV ikyu ,d rjg ls e`r izk; gks x;k gSA D;ksafd 10 o"kksZ ls ugjh d`f"k ls Ik'kq/ku dks vk?kkr yxk o bl {ks= esa tgkW gtkjksa dh la[;k esa ÅWV ik;s tkrs Fks ogkWa vkt dksbZ Hkh ÅWV ugha fn[krkA ugjh forfjdkvksa ekbZujksa pdksa o e.Mh;ksa dk tky lk fcN x;k gSA ftls geus izFke LVst ekuk gSA

¼c½ f}fr; Hkkx % geus rstikyk jk;eyk o jk?kok rhu iapk;rks dks ekuk gS ftldk iwjk {ks= yxHkx dek.M gS o ewy fuoklh;ksa dk O;olk; Ik'kqikyu gS vHkh bl {ks= esa djhc&djhc ugj ekbZuj o pdksa dk tky rks fcN x;k gS ijUrq d`f"k iui ugha ikbZ gSA D;ksafd nks o"kksZ ls MSe o ugj esa ikuh dh deh ds dkj.k o tehu dh mitkm iu ij {kerk dks ysdj d`"kd ds eu esa ,d 'kadk gSA bl ,ao vU; dkj.kksa ls ;g {ks= iw.kZr;k flafpr ugha gks ik;k gSA Ik'kq/ku ;gkWa fo|eku gSA

¼l½ r`fr; Hkkx % jkex< xzke iapk;r o blds lkFk xSj vkckn 13 xkWao dks feyk;k x;k gS blesa 25 izfr'kr {ks= dek.M gS ckdh vu dek.M gS o dqN lhek ds xkWao ugjh {ks= ls ckgj gSA ogkWa Ik'kq/ku eq[; :Ik ls Ik'kqikydks ds thou dk vk/kkj gSA bl {ks= esa jsfxLrku eSnkuh o ugjh flafpr {ks= Hkh gSA blesa Ik'kqikyd oxZ es ajktiwr eqlyeku o es?koky oxZ Hkh gSA ;krk;kr o ty L=ksr pkjkxkg lcdh mi;ksfxrk gks ldrh gSA

¼n½ prwFkZ Hkkx % 'kkgx< o ?kksVkMw {ks= bldk foLr`r {ks=Qy gS blesa 45 xkWao vkckn gS bl lcdh tul[;k 2000 ds djhc gSA blesa ugjh {ks= ugha gS o Ik'kq/ku eq[; :Ik ls Ik'kqikydks dk thou vk/kkj gSA bl {ks= esa eqlyeku oxZ ds Ik'kqikyd fuokl djrsa gSA Hkk"kk ;krk;kr dks ysdj dBhukbZ gSA iw.kZr;k gesa ;g ns[kus dks feyrk gS fd pkjksa gh LVst esa Ik'kq/ku izkIr gS exj Ik'kqikyd vletL; ds ?ksjs esa gSA ftldh eq[; otg gS ljdkj ls muds izfr vogsyukA

2-2 v)Z /kqeDdM Ik'kqikyu dh ifjHkk"kk %&

lfn;ksa ls Ik'kqikyd vius Ik'kqvksa ds pkjs o ikuh dh lgqfy;r ls Ik'kqvksa ds lkFk fopj.k djrs vk,] tgkWa cjlkr ds dkj.k ?kkl o ikuh gksrk Fkk] ogkWa vius ifjokj lfgr o dHkh pjokgk ifjokj NksMdj pyrk curk FkkA tSlyesaj {ks= esa o fla?k ikfdLrku esa tkrs o vkrs jgrs FksA vktknh ls iwoZ leqnk;ksa ds e/; vkilh >xMs o eu eqVko pkjs o ikuh dks ysdj gksrk FkkA vktknh ls iwoZ ls ysdj Ik'kqikyd vkt rd ckjg efguk dHkh ,d txg xzke ;k ksiMh cukdj jgrs FksA Ik'kq lfnZ;ksa o xfeZ;ksa esa jkr ds le; taxy esa jgrs FksA fnu esa Ik'kq vius vki taxy ls pkjk pjdj xksoy esa vk tkrs FksA xkWa;ks dk nw/k fudkydj] ikuh fiykdj 'kke dks taxy esa pkjkxkg dh vkSj jokuk dj nsrs FksA HksM o cdjh ikyd lnhZ ds eghus esa Hkh xksoy ls nwj 5 ls 6 fdyksfeVj vkdk'k ds rys xokMh esa jgrs FksA o pkjokgk muds lkFk jgrk FkkA ikuh jk=h es aihus gsrq peMsa dh Nkxyksa esa lkFk ys tkrk FkkA

ÅVWa ikyd lnhZ esa pkj efgus rd cky cPpks ls nwj ÅV.kh;ksa ds lkFk jgrk FkkA ÅV.kh;sa lnhZ esa 5 ls 7 fnu ckn ikuh ihrh gS o ÅVWa ikyd muds lkFk iwjh lnhZ yxHkx nw/k ihdj gh fudkyrk gSA ÅV.kh;ksa ds >w.M dh la[;k 250 ls ysdj 300 rd gksrh FkhA ftlesa pkj ls ysdj ikap ÅVWa ikyd lkFk jgrs FksA xehZ esa ÅV.kh;s taxy es [kwyh pjrh gSA ÅVWa ikyd dks lkFk ugha jguk iMrk FkkA xksoy o XokMh rhu pkj eghus ls T;knk ,d LFkku ij ugha j[krs FksA ,d txg ls nwljh txg pkjs dh deh ds dkj.k pkjkxkgksa ds vUnj iyk;u djrs FksA vkt Hkh jsfxLrku esa Ik'kqikydksa }kjk [kksns x;s dq, ¼rys½ jktdh; fjdkWMZ esa ntZ gSA tcfd vkcknh pd dkVs gq, ugha gS dgha dgh 'ke'kku Hkwfe Hkh ntZ gSA ijUrq ikl esa dgh vkcknh Hkwfe ntZ ugha gSA tc Hkh pS= oS'kk[k tsB eghuksa esa dgha Hkh nwj njkt cjlkr gksrh Fkh rc Ik'kqikyd 100 fdyksehVj ls ysdj 200 fdyksehVj rd vius Ik'kq o ifjokjksa ds lkFk pkjs dh [kkst esa iyk;u djrs FksA tgkWa LFkkuh; pjokgksa o bu Ik'kqikydksa ds chp >xMs o eueqVko o gR;k;sa rd gksrh FkhA Ik'kqikydksa dks vHkh vktknh ds 15 ls 20 o"kZ ds ckn ;g eglwl gksus yxk fd gekjs pkjkxkg ugha cfYd ;s jktdh; tehu gSA rc pkjkxkgksa dk fldqMuk o fcxMrh n'kk ns[kdj vius Hkfo"; dks ysdj vletL; dh fLFkfr esa gSA jktkvksa ds le; pjokgksa ds vkilh >xMs dk iSekuk pkjkxkg ds vUnj ?kqliSB dks ekuk tkrk Fkk o QSlys pjokgs jktk dk O;fDr ;k pjokgksa ds lewg ds iapks }kjk gksrk FkkA vc Hk;adj vdky ds le; vkcw ioZr] lfjLdk] gfj;k.kk o iatkc dh rjQ iyk;u djrs gSA vkt Hkh muds jgus ds LFkku ,d txg ugha gS xkWao esa chekjh o jk'ku gsrq vkrs gSA 'kknh o lkekftd j'esa pkjkxkgksa ds vUnj xksoyksa esa lknxh ls djrs gSA vc ;s yksx pkjkxkgks dks fldqMus ¼de gksus ls½ ls dqN {ks= esa tks fd 100 fdyksehVj x 60 fdyksehVj dh ifjf/k esa jgrs gS bl dkj.k vc ugj vkus ls xkWao

A Study conducted by Chatar Singh for AZERC, URMUL Trust, Bikaner

Know more about Chatar Singh's work in Jaisalmer

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Salt of the Earth, Thar Desert